“The power of a breaking wave does not increase fractionally with height, but as the square of its height. “For me, and not only for me, surfing harbors this paradox: a desire to be alone with waves fused to an equal desire to be watched, to perform.” How the power of a wave works I always feel a ferocious ambivalence: I want to be nowhere else I want to be anywhere else.” The paradox of surfing An unearthly beauty saturates an enormous arena of moving water, latent violence, too-real explosions, and sky. Terror and ecstasy ebb and flow around the edges of things, each threatening to overwhelm the dreamer. “With music as with waves, he said, you are ‘yielding to something more powerful than yourself.’” What it’s like to experience big surf Above all else, he describes the joys, perils, and zen of the surfer’s path in elegant and profound ways.īuy this book on Amazon (Highly recommend)Īccess My Searchable Collection of 100+ Book Notes Key Takeaways Yielding to something more powerful than yourself Through his tale a lifelong surfer, writer William Finnegan takes you on an exciting journey across the world.
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